Planning- As with many of my adventures to new places, I start my trip research with a quick google search of the region and then invariably go right to Ride with GPS to see what routes others have used. This trip was no different. There are lots of great resources available for riding in Portugal. The best resource I found was late in my planning and was so enticing, it forced me to change my plans. I discovered the existence of the GR13, The Via Algarviana is a Long Distance Path (GR13) that connects Alcoutim in the west to Cabo de São Vicente on the southeastern coast, with an distance of about 300 kilometers, mostly installed in the Algarve hills. The trail is a multi-use trail for hikers and bikers. The best time of year is the spring or early fall. Summer in the Algarve region is hot, too hot to be out on the trail during the heat of the day.
The Algarvian trail that goes from east to west across the southern mountains of Portugal known as the Algarve and Algarviana trail are great resources for planning. Algarve region known for its wine, olives and cork oak trees. Among other things.
I planned to base out of Faro for two days of riding then connect to the Algarvian trail for two more days before heading back up to Lisbon.
Day 1 - Travel
I flew from Washington, D.C. directly to Lisbon and caught a train to Faro on the southern coast of Portugal. Flying with a bike was pretty easy. A direct flight helps a lot and United made it easy on both ends. Also Europeans are more comfortable with bikes it seems, cab drivers didn’t even flinch when I stood in front of the train station with my front wheel off, ready to load up. The train was also bike friendly, with dedicated bike storage and a seat next to the bike. Even went into the grocery store with my bike :)
Day 2 - Faro
After some quick research and a talk with a local, we found a ride along the water in wetlands and over lightly traveled gravel roads. The beach breeze was nice and the shade of trees kept it comfortable, though it was only 75 degrees. The town was super bike friendly both cars and crowds but the lack of dedicated bike trails was a bummer. As we rode along the boardwalk, the views of the coast and sand dunes was great, sights one could only readily experience by bike. Faro had several cobble sections in the older part of town and they were rough! Portugal is very similar to Southern California, cool temps near the coast, dry and hot as you go inland and lots of sunshine. Sunscreen is key. AS a reward, dinner that night in an outdoor cafe' with a nice bottle of red wine and a plate of steamed snails- everyone at that cafe had some on their table, so why not?
Day 3- Olhao
adventure to Olhao. Took the road most traveled, for a bit and then took a detour to the paved and unpaved farm roads. So much better. Wandered our way into the small seaside town and sought out a lunch spot. Ended up at Cafe Baiana. After grabbing a table outside and what we thought was ordering food we sat for an hour. In the meantime we self helped to olives and carrots- yummy and waters from the fridge. It was all good curious we looked up the reviews on google only to find it was known as the “cafe of the drunks”
Rode back to Faro via farm roads but the sun was warm in the afternoon and the sea breeze less prevalent further from the coast.
Day 4 - Faro to Algarviana Trail
I set out on my track from far out at about 9 o’clock with my way through the traffic filled streets and out to the farmlands just north of town. The roads were olive and citrus tree lined narrow farm roads. I continued north, climbing the way alternately between paved and gravel roads. As I rode up towards Alportel in the low mountains climbing until reaching the hilltop. It was starting to get warm and I was already done with a bottle plus. The route from the summit continued along the ridgeline on a series of rollers.I had stopped at a few spring water sources, but they were all dry. Luckily, I found this perfectly positioned blue water tank and got a bottle refill at the top of the hill. And then the rollers crossed the ridge line until arriving in the very small town of Parises. I stopped at the snack bar and had a Coke and a banana. A few hundred meters up the road, I joined the Algraviana trail. It was on. The early sections were a little rough up and
After grueling up and down for an hour I stopped at A Tia Bia for a water refill and espresso. In Barranco do Velho. Mmmm
At mile 50, only 1 mile from the endpoint for the night, I came across quite a treat after a hot, hot day of riding, Fonte Grande de Alte, a spring fed outdoor pool. I had to stop and change for a quick, refreshing swim before finishing for the day. Luckily I had a bathing suit. The water was cool, quite a relief after 88° temps while climbing all day.
Stayed the night at the Alte Hotel, cenvenitly right near the trail as it passed thorugh town. So nice with a restaurant serving a wonderful dinner ( seems to be the standard in Portugal) and a breakfast (included) for $50 euro. The outdoor patio eating was a real treat with views of the hills and the Atlantic in the distance.
Day 5- Alte to Messines
After a great breakfast, I loaded up the bike and filled the water bottles, ready for another warm day on the trail. Since I was headed to Lisbon by train later in the day, my ride was time limited as I had to make it to the train station by 2:45. I decided to stay with the GR13 and do a bit of an out and back loop. I planned to ride 50 miles with another 5K’ of climbing. The main climb had grades up to 14%. Glad I had the 50T on my cassette! It turned out to be a great ride along a reservoir and up into the hills, riding along the ridgeline. I wish I had more time as I turned back to head towards the train station.
Day 6- Lisbon
After several days riding the more rugged parts of southern Portugal, it was nice to be back on smooth pavement, and the sights of the big city. I didn't miss the traffic, however. On my final day of riding, I mapped out all the sights to see in an afternoon and loaded up my Garmin. Lisbon is a hilly city but the area along the coast is flat and has a long 15+ mile paved bike trail. I only had a few hours so I wasn't able to get around to all the spots I had hoped to but I can leave that for my time visit because I am definitely coming back!
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